On a Friday night last September, we were up very late packing and searching for our wedding video. We make it a point to watch our wedding video every year on our anniversary. For our fifth anniversary, though, we were leaving the country. We had to find the video before we left in order to pack it. After turning the whole house upside down, I finally found it in a keepsake box in the top of an extra closet. We packed up the video and the laptop so we could watch the video in Ecuador!
We only got a few hours of sleep before the alarm went off. We drove to Laplace and Nicklaus brought us to the airport. Poor thing had to be up at 4 a.m. on his birthday. Once at the airport, we got checked in without a problem. Next stop: Panama City, Panama! The flight to Panama was four hours, and I slept through most of it. We were offered a hot breakfast with eggs and sausage. We landed in Panama for our five-hour layover and sought out a place for lunch. In the airport, we found dozens of retail shops, but not many restaurant options. We finally boarded the plane to Quito, Ecuador and anxiously awaited takeoff. This flight had tv shows to watch on built-in monitors. David watched “Dual Survivor,” while I watched “Friends.” We enjoyed hot meals on this flight as well. David chose the burrito and I had a chicken sandwich.
When we landed in Quito, Ecuador, our guide, Pablo, was waiting for us. He assisted us with our baggage and transported us to our hotel, Vieja Cuba. The drive to the hotel lasted about 45 minutes. Once we arrived at Hotel Vieja Cuba, Pablo escorted us inside to get checked in. We got our room key, which was attached to a wooden spoon, and headed upstairs to room 4. We thought about going out to dinner, but ultimately fell asleep.
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On Sunday, we explored the city of Quito. We woke up at 6 a.m. to get ready for the day. We went down for breakfast at 7, and were surprised at the options presented to us. We had eggs, toast, granola, yogurt, blackberry juice, coffee and fresh fruit. We later learned they alternate the fresh fruit options. Watermelon and banana were served on our first day. Pablo was at the hotel at 8 a.m. to begin our tour. We spent the next six hours adventuring and taking in spectacular views. As we drove through town, Pablo told us about the history and geography of Quito. He took us to the top of a hill for a great view of the entire city. We saw a huge statute of a winged virgin and took a lot of photos of the city. We attempted to go into a residential area for photos, but 3 dogs scared us away. “Cuidado perro,” we heard. And so, we backed away. The next part of our tour took us through the old town on foot. We walked by the great square, the government palace and many street vendors. We visited multiple churches including San Francisco and Compania. We visited a store with tunnels which were full of merchandise, carvings and pottery. The final part of the tour was to see the middle of the world.
Ecuador is named so because the equator runs through it. There is a location in Ecuador marked 0’0″0″ calculated by travelers in the 1800s. In 1975, though, American soldiers brought GPS technology to Ecuador and marked the exact location about 200 meters away. The first location is marked with a monument called, “The Middle of the World.” The other location also has a museum and guided tours. We saw examples of scientific phenomena only experienced at the equator. At the equator, there are no weather extremes. The weather is always the same: sunny and hot. We both attempted to balance an egg on the head of a nail, and to walk in a straight line. Both are harder than they seem. For lunch at the equator, we tried two local dishes: empanada and boloney. The empanada had chicken and vegetables in it. The boloney consisted of cheese surrounded by a dense ball of flour. After the tour, we were delivered back to the hotel. I took a long nap while David watched the 49ers game. When I awoke, I wasn’t feeling well. I presumed it was heat exhaustion, but was not sure. We attempted to go out to dinner at Achiote, but we had to leave because I was sick.
David ordered a local dish, “cui,” which is cooked Guinea Pig. I ordered ceviche, and later learned the locals do not have ceviche at dinner. It’s typically consumed at or before lunch. We brought our food back to the hotel room in carry-out fashion. We ordered two appetizers: locros and llapigachos. Locros is a potato soup topped with cheese and avocado. Llapigachos are mashed potato balls. David drank guava juice at the restaurant, which he had never tried before. We were not disappointed by any of the juices. I attempted to order chicha, but they were out at the time. When we returned, I went straight to sleep. David ate the Guinea Pig and then watched football before going to bed.
Monday was our travel day to get to the Galapagos Islands. We had to catch a very early flight, but not before grabbing breakfast at the hotel restaurant. We had granola, yogurt, toast and strawberry juice to drink. The server brought me some warm milk for my coffee. They sent us on our way with two local bananas and we met our driver, Paula. She delivered us to the airport and escorted us inside (thankfully!) through the check-in process. We boarded our flights at 8:30 en route to the islands. We stopped in Guayaquil to drop off passengers and refuel. After reloading the plane with more passengers, we were on our way. We had a cold deli sandwich for lunch along with beverage service. No in-flight entertainment was offered, but thankfully David brought the iPad. He played solitaire while I wrote in my journal. After flying in to Baltra, or Seymour Island, it is necessary to take a ferry ride to Santa Cruz.
When we arrived, our driver was waiting for us, but he did not speak English at all. Thankfully, another passenger with us was fluent in both English and Spanish. We later learned her name is Andrea. She informed us we would be having a tour of the Highlands of Santa Cruz after we get checked in at the hotel. On the drive to the hotel, we saw giant tortoises roaming around, even in the road! We noticed the climate in the highlands was humid and cool. We arrived at Hotel Ninfa and had lunch at the hotel restaurant. We had fish with a unique raisin sauce on top. We also had rice and a small salad, which we learned is customary. Our tour of the highlands began at 3:30 p.m. Raul was again our driver, and he was not afraid to speed or to pass other drivers on the roadway. Adriana was our guide. When we arrived at the ranch, we were escorted to the “boot house” to get rubber boots for the tour. Because of the rainy season, it can get very muddy. We walked along a trail and saw giant tortoises roaming freely around the property. There were fences representing boundaries, but the tortoises frequently roam on either side of the fences. We saw some small birds, but the tortoises were the main attraction. One tortoise even followed us around the property! There is an area for the tortoises which resembled a mudbath and we saw several tortoises there.
At the end of the trail, we were able to visit lava tunnels underground. Some areas were completely dark while others had artificial lighting. It was fascinating to see the lush greenery at the entrance compared to the bare surfaces within the tunnel. After the lava tunnels, we were offered lemongrass tea and/or coffee. Adriana ordered one “bolon,” and shared with us. David was not a fan of the bolon. We did the “tourist” thing and climbed into a huge tortoise shell. It was very funny to watch us get in because you have to back in while lying on your stomach. After the refreshments and photo opportunities, we made the drive back tot he coast where our hotel was located.
Adriana suggested we try Kioskos Street for dinner. We had no idea what we were getting ourselves into. When we asked for directions, Adriana said we could “follow our noses” because the food smells so good. Fortunately, Kioskos Street was not far from our hotel. Upon our arrival at the beginning of the street, we realized the whole street was a dining area. Vendors lined the street on both sides while tables and chairs occupy the street. men and women both accosted us with menus and fresh seafood trying to get us to choose their kiosk. We walked down one side of the street and up the other side of the street before selecting “The Blue Booby.” David had a meat dish with rice and I enjoyed fried fish with a giant beer. My Pilsener, a local brand, was 400 ml. David drank Fanta at most meals. After dinner, we walked to a local shop to rent our wet suits for the snorkeling trips. We also had some local ice cream. I had coconut and David had almond. We quickly discovered we would not go hungry on our trip of a lifetime.
Tuesday morning, we met in the lobby of our hotel for our next adventure. We walked a short distance to the dock and took a water taxi to our boat for the day, “Bite Me.” Jorge, our amazing guide, talked with us about the wildlife and the surprises in store for the day. We rode in the boat taking in the beautiful sights for about one hour to Santa Fe Island. The captain was on level two and we sat with him for a bit to take photos. We saw blue-footed boobies from the boat and several sea lions and iguanas resting on the rocks. Then, it was time for my favorite vacation activity: snorkeling!
We put on our wetsuits and prepared for the cold water. The ocean was a beautiful, clear blue. My underwater camera came in handy on this excursion. We saw a lot of fish on this first snorkel and only one sea lion. We got back in the boat and the chef on board served sandwiches and hot cocoa. The next stop for snorkeling proved to be very exciting! We found a group of sea lions which were very playful. Jorge brought a life preserver with him, and the sea lions had a field day playing with the ropes attached to it. They even nibbled on our flippers! David must have looked appetizing because one sea lion bit him on the arm. It was my favorite story to tell throughout the whole vacation. Not many people experience a bite from the sea lions, and the locals were very surprised. Thankfully, David took it all in stride. It was not a severe injury, but it did get his attention! We boarded the boat again and had fresh fish with rice for lunch.
On our last stop, we visited a beach with several marine iguanas. We saw lava crabs and even a sea turtle! He poked his head above the water periodically, floating lazily along with the tide. The boat ride back was uneventful. We visited with new friends, Norbert and Simona, from Austria. We cleaned up for dinner and visited Kioskos Street again. This time, we had lobster and grilled meat with grilled corn. We also enjoyed local fruit smoothies. I enjoyed the corn so much, I could’ve eaten it every day! It was served with salt on the outside and a mayonnaise sauce for dipping. There was no room for dessert after that meal! We visited the supermarket to get aloe vera, but they were closing. Fortunately, we found a cafeteria on the upper level, and they served the best hot cocoa. We met a lovely American girl working the cafeteria register. She came from Kansas City and was traveling throughout South America on a long-term basis.
On Wednesday, we had another tour scheduled. We started the day with a hotel breakfast, complete with meat, rice, yogurt and granola. We met in the hotel lobby again for our tour and walked to the dock. Eddie was our trusty tour guide, and Armondo was the boat captain. One of the best things about the bay tour was “Las Grietas,” a beautiful secluded area with clear water for snorkeling and swimming. It was a narrow, deep body of water with rock formations on both sides. We met a friend from Germany, Alissa, who did not bring a wetsuit. She must have been cold in her bikini, but she did not let it slow her down. We snorkeled there for a long while, even swimming under rock tunnels to see more wildlife and scenery. We made our way back to the boat and snorkeled with sea turtles and sting rays. Armondo was the best underwater photographer I could’ve asked for. He swam faster and deeper than me and was able to catch great photos of the sea life. We had a small snack on board which consisted of crackers and a soda. We decided we needed to have lunch once back on shore.
After cleaning up at the hotel, we went to Cafe Hernan for lunch. We ate an all-American lunch, complete with pizza and a hamburger. We had empanadas for an appetizer and they were prepared differently than the ones in Quito. The crust reminded me of a hot pocket, and I was not disappointed! After lunch, we hailed a taxi to take us to Charles Darwin Station. It was an interesting exhibit which included land tortoises and a museum. Basically, you can visit at your own pace. It was very informative. David thought the tortoises looked sad because they were in captivity.
After our visit to the Charles Darwin Station, we headed back to the supermarket. David had a cheeseburger while I enjoyed coffee with ice cream. We found a local bakery with large cookies displayed. I ordered a banana cake and David had cookies. The banana cake slice came with a passion-fruit sauce, which I didn’t love. It was too strong and took away from the banana flavor. We quickly learned milk is not sold by the gallon, but yogurt is sold by the gallon. We bought some milk from the supermarket to go with our baked goods.
On Thursday, our early breakfast consisted of sausages and onions with rice. We met in the lobby at 6:45 and we walked to the dock for our 7:30 departure. The boat was called, “Splendor,” but the ride to Isabela Island was anything but splendid. The water was rough, the boat was enclosed and everyone was nauseated. We finally arrived more than two hours later. The island of Isabela is far less populated than Santa Cruz. The streets weren’t paved, either. This island is obviously less developed than the area where we had been staying. We traveled to a beach and then to the turtle breeding center. We learned that turtles take four to five months for incubation, and that efforts are being made to repopulate the tortoises of the Galapagos. We had lunch at a local restaurant which served breaded shrimp. Afterward, we headed back toward the dock. After some discussions and $75 extra, I convinced the guide to let us on a boat to go see Galapagos penguins. We saw one penguin! It was worth it! We also had the opportunity to snorkel. I found two sea turtles and several fish on my snorkel adventure. The ride back to Santa Cruz was also a terrible two and a half hours. The locals said this time of year causes rough waters, but I would bet the enclosed boat makes it rough ride year-round.
After we returned our wetsuits, we took a taxi to Isla Grill. I enjoyed the tuna with oyster sauce and David had steak. We ordered chocolate fondue and enjoyed fresh fruit for dipping. At the end of the meal, we were offered complimentary coffee. We went souvenir shopping on our way back to the hotel and then packed our suitcases for the trip back to the mainland.
Friday morning, I woke up with the sun. I walked to Tortuga Bay which was about 3 Km from the hotel. It was well worth the trip! There was a long path leading to the beach from the road. There were a few people exercising along the way, but it was not crowded. I walked the length of the first beach to the second beach taking several photos along the way. I found birds, iguanas, and even a young sea lion playing in a lagoon. I tried to do yoga, but the sand was very unsteady. I managed a few handstands and headstands before heading back to the hotel. There were several visitors heading toward the beach as I headed back toward the road. When I got back to the hotel, we finished packing and went to the cafeteria for breakfast. My breakfast sandwich consisted of eggs, meat and ranchera sauce. David had crepes with meat and cheese. We met with Raul and Andrea at 9:30 and headed to the airport. We made one awesome stop on the way to the airport: Twin Craters. We learned that the craters were not volcanic as we suspected. Instead, they were the result of unsteady earth collapsing after the cooling of magma below. The remainder of the trip to the airport was uneventful. We visited with Andrea, a local. She lives in Guayaquil, Ecuador, but was raised on the islands. She studied English for nine months in Boston, and works as an architect.
On our flight to Quito, we had sandwiches, but we were still hungry by the time we got to the hotel. Paula was our driver and she asked several questions about the trip to the Galapagos. We ordered dinner once we arrived back at Hotel Vieja Cuba. I had onion soup, risotto and grilled chicken. David had caprese, pasta and some of my chicken. Everything we tried was fabulous.
Happy Anniversary!
Saturday, October 1, 2016 was spent exploring the mountains, and it was an unforgettable experience. We started our day with an early breakfast. Pablo was waiting for us at 8:30 a.m. to begin the tour. We drove a long distance to Cotopaxi National Park. Along the way, we visited a local market. It was an outdoor area with stalls for vendors. We saw lamb, both raw and grilled, along with several fruits and vegetables. We had corn tortilla snacks with cheese and onions (4/$1). We also learned that locals purchase rice and potatoes by 100 pound sacks! We continued driving toward the national park, but bad weather was approaching. We did not see the snow-capped peak of the volcano, but we learned a lot about volcanic activity from Pablo.
We traveled to a Hacienda on the other side of the park. They welcomed us with Canelaza, and alcoholic beverage with cinnamon. We waited for lunch in a cozy living area by a fireplace. Lunch was served around 1 p.m. We shared an appetizer of yucca balls and toasted corn. We had potato soup with avocado and cheese. Our entrée consisted of chicken and rice. Finally, for dessert, we shared chocolate cake. All this food, and we were expected to go horseback riding! We dragged ourselves up to go outside and were outfitted to look like local cowboys, or “chagras.” We had ponchos and special pants for the ride. We rode for a long time in the off-and-on rain, but it was very pleasant. David’s horse was either lazy or stubborn, but he was very slow. My horse, Chiclet, was leading the way. When we got to the top, we had a quick view of Ruminahuai, but the fog rolled in very quickly. We took some photos with the chagras statues at the top, then we headed back to the ranch. Pablo indicated it was very important to get back to the gate by 5 so we can drive through the park. If you miss the timing, you may be forced to drive around the park rather than through it. We barely made it! I slept on the drive back because I was not feeling well.
We both traveled with formal wear so that we could dress up on our actual anniversary. We had big plans for a fancy anniversary dinner, but we didn’t make it. In the end, David ordered pizza to be delivered to the hotel. It was quite an ordeal for David to order pizza in a foreign country. He went to the front desk clerk for assistance and ordered something akin to a meat-lovers pizza. He wasn’t expecting the dough, cheese and meat to be completely different than his “American” style pizza. He said the dough tasted like crackers and the meat tasted like lunch meat. There was no marinara sauce on the pizza, either. It was edible, but it wasn’t his favorite. We kept with the tradition and watched our wedding video before falling asleep.
Our trip to the Galapagos Islands was absolutely unforgettable. We want to go back and see more of the islands, but we both know this was a trip of a lifetime!